is our 'last' view of Caleta from the bus window, and
the beautiful horseshoe beach which we enjoyed so much.
Just right of center in the photo is a lighthouse, and
this is the area where we stayed.
sundown to dawn, this lighthouse provided constant
rotating light to warn sailors and fishermen of the
rocks and juts of land out to sea during star-filled
nights. In the ebony darkness of the new mornings before
sunrise, we could see the Southern Cross easily on the
veranda right outside our bedroom. The Bufadero (the
enormous blow hole) below the cliff where our hotel was
located mesmerized us with the continuous crashing of
waves against it, and the seawater blowing up through
During the day, the sea was lapis colored, and from our
windows, we saw active marine life like migrating
whales. For us, it was a simple perfection.
Caleta is now a just a memory as we continue
our journey south east
on Mexico's rugged coast.
is a gentle river flowing peacefully, displaying a
different style of wildlife.
time to time out the bus window we see this remarkable
an uncomplicated transport system here in Mexico. Buses
stop along the way if they see an interested passenger.
the gorgeous ocean view in the center of the photo.
disembarked from the bus at Las Penas but didn't find
suitable lodging. Mostly we found serious surfers,
one store and a restaurant, not enough to keep our
attention for long. Still, it's beautiful, isn't it?
shot gives you another view of that same beach.
decided to wait along the highway for the next bus to
come by. Of course, life goes on all around us, and this
man proudly displays a fish he just caught.
Finally the bus arrives.
look like I'm hanging on for dear life as the bus takes
the twists and turns of the coastal road neatly.
To be honest we were not really looking forward to
returning to Zihuatanejo but needed a place to layover
for a couple of days and catch up on email and supplies.
Then when a
couple of cruise ships dropped thousands of tourists
onto the main beach , we were sure we needed to get out
of Gringolandia as soon a possible. We never saw
so many tourists in one place!
So what changed?
After visiting a local waterhole on a couple of
afternoons and chatting with Americans who live here,
Billy was impressed by their answer to his question. “
What is the draw that keeps you here in Zihuatanejo?”
These people had a very good command of the Spanish
language and could live in any city in Mexico or, for that
matter, anywhere in Latin America. So they chose Zihua for a reason.
All of their
answers were the same: “The people here in Zihua make
did notice the friendliness upon arriving, but we find
that most Mexicans are friendly so didn’t put that much
thought into it. But the more their answer sunk in and
the more experiences we had dealing with the locals, we
now understand their loyalty to this town.
you get to Zihua, you must go to
Panificadora El Buen Gusto and say hello to
Silvia. This is a family-run bakery and has some of the
most delicious pastries we have tried in Mexico.
vanilla cake is remarkable and the cinnamon pudding
bread is awesome too. Most pieces are 6 pesos each.
Panificadora El Buen Gusto can be found on
Vincente Guerrero #11.
Another place we heartily recommend is Didi’s
on Vincente Guerrero #12, in Centro Zihuatanejo. They
have the biggest and best quesadillas you will ever eat.
These come with a choice of 6 salsas as you see above.
One is made with ground peanuts and roasted dried chilis,
another with marinated onions and peppers in jalapeno
juice, another is a typical green salsa, a roasted
pepper salsa, a dark, dark, delicious salsa and an
the menu changes with each meal period, the Quesadillas
are available from 5 to 11 pm.
you plan to be on the road, order a quesadilla to go for
the ride. It's convenient, tasty and affordable.
Having settled in somewhat, with a decent hotel, some
good restaurants, a bakery and an afternoon watering
hole, we decided to take a walk to see other places
around the area. The above map gives you an idea of how
the coast line looks.
destination for the day is Playa la Ropa. The story goes
that since Zihuatanejo was a stopping point for the
Spanish fleets on their way to and from the Philippines,
cargo of clothing and textiles was washed ashore from a
la Ropa literally means 'Clothing Beach.'
area was filled with pirates, privateers, and trading
days it's a bit tamer, with houses up the
hillsides, and pleasure boats dotting the harbor. There
were many places along the way up the hill to stop and
rest, enjoying the
view the little harbor of Zihua.
we stopped at Tentaciones Hotel, Restaurant and
Lounge which had outdoor fountains everywhere, a
restful atmosphere and overlooks the bay.
Tentaciones means temptation or enticement, so the
name of the hotel is
a bit playful since it's a Buddhist style spa, catering
to the pleasures of life.
arrive at Playa de Ropa at a mega Intrawest
the resort advertises that it is located in the
traditional Mexican fishing village of Zihuatanejo, the
sculpted hillside resort couldn't be more removed from
the local way of life.
Still, it is stunning, offering water sports, a clean
beach, restaurants, bars, tranquil hiding spots, and
golf cart transport through its locked and gated
photo gives you a better view of the private membership
resort. Truly lovely. And truly priced out of the reach
of the local Mexican population!
Private though it may be, Billy's charm got us into the
resort to take these photos and to enjoy a bit of
swimming on this fine beach. The water was guaranteed to
be clean, and the beaches, combed.
Caleta de Campos, through Las Penas and Lazaro Cardenas,
the bus fee totaled 109 Pesos per person. We were
able to negotiate a deal with our hotel stay, paying 250
Pesos per night instead of 350.
are several decent hotels on Nicolas Bravo from which to
choose. Have the cab take you there and begin searching
for one that suits you. This street is centrally located
for restaurants, the beach, and some small stores to
purchase milk, fruit or snacks.
stop: a place you've
never heard of...
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