In 1991 Billy and Akaisha Kaderli retired at the age
of 38. Now, into their 3rd decade of this
financially independent lifestyle, they invite you
to take advantage of their wisdom and experience.
HUE, VIETNAM
BILLY AND AKAISHA KADERLI
The views were spectacular. We chose the 3 dollar, 5 hour bus
trip through the Hai Van pass to the ancient city of Hue. Twenty kilometers
long, this pass is the highest and longest pass in Vietnam, often enshrouded
in clouds. Today was clear. The name Hai Van means Sea and Cloud, and from
the top of the pass, one could see the coastal panoramas with each turn in the road.
The journey from Hoi An to Hue is a very
popular option heading north or coming south. Our reservations were made through
Hotel Pho, but any travel agency offers this choice as well as a private
car. A bit more expensive,
HAI VAN PASS VIEW FROM BUS
($35USD) this option takes less time and
the driver will stop anywhere along the way for photos. If you ride the
bus heading north, be sure to get a seat on the right, as the views are
better seen from this side.
Hue is a mysterious, somber city. It's an historian’s dream come true,
as there are numerous 19th century ruins there. This Imperial City of Hue
was the capital of Vietnam during the reign of the Nguyen dynasty, the last
dynasty in Vietnam. The Citadel, a walled section of the city, was
one of the scenes of the bloody and bitter 1968 Tet Offensive. To this day, the
Vietnamese regard Hue with respect and awe. It is considered to be the
pinnacle of Vietnamese fashion, language and cuisine.
Receiving an average
of 120 inches of rain a year, this very clean town is one of Vietnam’s
rainiest cities. Despite this threat of rain, we enjoyed ourselves greatly,
and
a return visit is a must.
OUR DRAGON PAINTED BOAT
After some initial confusion, we settled into our hotel, the Binh Minh
II, then went about to scout out the town. At first impression, Hue seemed quieter and more reserved than Hoi An. However, that does not mean the
locals don’t instigate fun! CoCo, our waitress at Minh and CoCo Mini
Restaurant, was a handful. “Large and in charge”, she knew how to play the
expected games between Asians and Farangs. Fawning over the men, she kept an
attentive eye on the wives to be sure not to offend. Everyone plays the
expected role: she wants customers, the men want the attention, and the wife
enjoys the show.
After devouring the best squid fritters ever, a generous
cut of fresh grilled fish with garlic, and a salad provencal, this became
“our”
restaurant in Hue. It proved to be a
good choice. This city is situated on the Perfume River, our clue that another day trip on the
water was in store. Highly decorated boats with Dragon motifs are lined up at the dock, ready at
any time of day for rental.
After a leisurely breakfast at our hotel, we were off to arrange our
midmorning cruise along this famous river. A 110,000 Dong fee ($7.33 USD)
was decided for a 3 hour trip, with our choice of locations. Preferring a slow speed, with casual viewing of river life along the way,
we spotted a
small floating
village of about 50 boats congregated in one section. Locals were living
their lives undisturbed on their houseboats, lounging around, preparing
meals, doing laundry, children playing, dogs sleeping. It’s a simple way of
life. The river provides and sustains, there are few possessions, and
anything not traded for is found in the local market in town.
Our boat changed direction and headed toward the famous
Thien Mu Pagoda. Here an area is reserved demonstrating deep
respect and
THICH QUANG DUC...PROTEST
ANCIENT THIEN MU PAGODA
reverence for The Most Venerable Thich Quang Duc. On June 11,
1963, this celebrated monk drove his blue Austin to Saigon to conduct a
grave protest. The Ngo Dinh Diem Regime’s policies against religious freedom
and discrimination towards Buddhists were destructive to Vietnamese
society and culture. Thich Quang Duc got out of his car, sat in a lotus
position, covered himself with gasoline, and burnt himself to death.
You will see his car, and photos of his protest act. What is very
peculiar and worth noting, are the photos of him burning, showing him
placidly sitting in the lotus position in meditation. We all know what it is
like to accidentally burn ourselves on the stove, recoiling immediately in
pain, and the action is instinctive. Here is a true testament to the power
of profound meditation. Regardless of what one would think of his choice
of protest, one still comes away with a feeling of awe at the potency of
his mind.
Audible throughout the grounds of this Chinese style Pagoda, were the
rhythmic blows to a gong. Every five seconds or so, a saffron robed monk
would pound the center of a brass disk in a special area reserved for
ceremony. The sounds were mesmerizing and peaceful, as those dressed in
finery paid respect and made merit by bowing, placing flowers or lighting
incense in front of Buddha statues. The reverence and calm were palpable and most
inviting.
With placid thoughts to accompany our return trip home, we boarded our
private dragon bedecked boat. We were sorry to see our time in Hue end, for
only the surface of the city had been scratched. Holding intriguing
memories to prompt another visit, we look forward to uncovering more in
this ancient and mysterious city.
